Warping of a model is a result of uneven thermal contraction of the ABS during printing. Most materials when heated expand and as they cool they contract. In order to reduce warping it is essential to have a heated bed. The larger the object, the more the bed requires preheating. Imagine printing an elastic band stretched out, this is similar to the forces involved.
Warping or parts splitting is also caused by:
· The gap between the platform and the nozzle are not equal at all points, i.e. the print platform is not level. Do you always get warping on the same side.
· The nozzle height / distance between nozzle and platform is too great. If the nozzle is too far away from the print platform, then the part will not anchor correctly. As the part cools it will pull free of the perfboard, resulting in warping. If your raft is lifting off the bed, then this is likely the issue.
· Avoid cold air blowing over the printer (especially the UP Plus), even people walking past the printer can cause warping by a sudden cold breeze.
· The edge of the bed is cooler than the centre. A bead of ABS
deposited at the same temp as it exits the nozzle will cool more rapidly at the
edge of the bed, the higher the temperature gradient, the greater the
contraction, so the plastic at the cooler edge will contract more and when this
occurs repeatedly (layer by layer) as a fresh layer retracts, it pulls the
layer underneath up slightly. To fix this you need to equalise the temperature
of the printing volume, ideally by enclosing it. Something as simple as a
cardboard box will help.
You absolutely must not lift the box
during printing though, as its as bad for the ABS as it would be for opening
the oven when making Soufflé.
Last updated by Dale 15/07/2015